PART FOUR. Press styling and Photography reality blog

For this part of the study I had to create a photoshoot showing my styling, photography and art direction ideas. I used my two stunning friends Louise an Max. I did the photoshoot in an abandoned alleyway which had eerie lighting at night. Bit scary, but worth it. For the first look I took on the hippy/folkloric look, I bought a long black dress from a charity shop and embellished it with vintage fabric and embroidery. The styling is similar of the collections from Valentino and Dolce and Gabanna, mainly a/w 2014. I used two seperate flower garlands, the black one gives it height and volume. 

I find it difficult to express what image the photoshoot is supposed to present. Even though I did it? I guess it merges sophistication and elegance but it's pure, more grounded with dark undertones. 

Max has a very striking look, a 60s mod muse. I styled him with a girls suede jacket with faux fur and a turtle neck. Turtlenecks have made a great, unexpected comeback this year. A turtleneck instantly makes you feel sophisticated and intelligent. I think the glasses actually makes him look like Yves Saint Laurent. 

I like how the hands conceal the face, giving it look more mysterious and psychedelic, it also shows off the jewellery. This was taken in darker light making it more eerie. 

Here I've combined two converging images. The dress, the flowers, have a virginal and modest feel. But the stance and the subtle show of leg is more erotic and provoking. I think this is also effected by the colour of the dress, if it were in white it wouldn't look as effective. 

Styling and Photography Inspiration

Vincent Michaud

Lana Del Rey

Yves Saint Laurent

Florence + the machine

PART THREE: Designer Blog

Designer No.1- VALENTINO

The classical work of Valentino, master couturier, seems worlds away from the hippy or mod subcultures. Valentino's aim was to instill an essence of femininity, glamour, haute couture and perfection in his designs. To dress the world's most beautiful, famous and rich women. What I love most about many of his designs is the attention to detail and most importantly, elegance. 

A light, smooth draping gown, pure, beautiful. 

However I have noticed that many of the brands designs, in current years, have a very bohemian look about them. The silhouette is free but still sculptures the body with a sinched waist, the skirt falls gracefully, high neckline. It looks very natural, pure and virginal. I think that reflects the hippy subculture in that they were seeking an escape to better surroundings. In this fashion shoot she is wondering the wilderness.

In October 2008 Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli became creative directors of the brand and have been credited with rejuvinating the brand with collections that stayed true to its legacy whilst also moving the design aesthetic forward.

I was inspired by these recent collections as I believe they convey folkloric, ethnic, and bohemian sensibilities.

The Spring 2014 collection was actually inspired by the Opera. From costumes and drawings in the opera house in rome to traditional peasant needlework. They're designs seemed pagan and ethnic, worldly. I liked the contrast between the black and bright coloured embellishments, many of the patterns looked egyptian and aztec.   

I like this psychedelic, ornate detailing, with rich colours. It is also quite subtle in comparison to some other garments with allover embellishments. 

Here they took inspiration from Frida Kahlo for the Valentino Resort 2015 collection. It had a very folkloric feel to it, colourful, playful but serious. Broderie anglaise victorian style- Laura Ashley dresses of the late sixties and early seventies. Also some very modish outfits.

Designer no.2- Manish Arora

Manish Arora is an inspiring designer, he is known for his astute craftmanship and unique play on colours. His designs are inspired by Indian heritage, something which relates very well to the hippy aesthetic. However he gives it a contemporary edge. 

In 2011 he was announced the creative director of womenswear for Pacco Rabanne. Rabanne and Arora are both known for their creative and avant-garde creations, working with contemporary materials. He instilled in the brand, the same futuristic, space age hype from the 60s which I marvel at.

I particulary like his pastel collections, it is a fresh approach in comparison to some of his other collections which include very bright, vivid colours. Still with the inclusion of heavy embroidery but from afar it is more subtle, classic, modern and chic. In comparison to Valentino, his work has more edge, it is young, new and exciting. Like Valentino a lot of his collections feature a lot of pieces with smooth draping silhouettes, they look effortless and elegant. However the pieces I have selected are more structured.

This piece is from one of his earlier collections which represents his aesthetic very well.

His spring 2015 collection is refreshingly different to his typical design work, although still heavily embellished it is toned down. He uses multiple layers, with sheer paneling, iridescent materials that still give a mystical image. the mixing of sheer materials on top of embellishment to give a gauzy haze of foreground and background.

 

 I like the combination of the traditional style pattern, but with the addition of sequins, metallic tones and the simple cut shift dress, it makes it modern. Like the 60s space age Pacco Rabanne dresses.

 

I thought these two looks stood out as they are radically different. Simple, minimalist, but still with a little touch of sparkle. I like the sporty feel of them. This inspires me to experiment with mixing different styles and silhouettes.  

 

 

                       

 The spring 2014 collection incorporates fluoro, art deco patterns and kaleidoscopic botanicals. A sporty, lightweight collection with pebbly sweatshirts, waterproof parkas and knitted flapper dresses. 

I like the creative use of imagery, such as the vintage planes, cigarettes and keys, other images are hard to decipher. 

 

I like the amount of layers and depth in this piece. The intricate,beautiful embellishments, which look like scales and fins. I like the accuracy, and the symmetry of the arrangement. With subtle hints of gold, in beading beneath. 

Designer No.3- Miuccia Prada

I remember when Prada's A/W 2011 collection caught my eye. She chose the dropped- waist, straight up and down silhouette of the 1920s flapper or sixties dolly bird, two decades in which, I believe, the styles coexist. Wide belts were slung low over big-buttoned coat-dresses or sheer shifts. The collection gives the essence of 1960s mod, especially with the reference to Yves Saint Laurents iconic Mondrian dress from 1965. A quintessence of fashion modernism.

I like the rich use of colours, a toned down version of Laurents' version with primary colours. 

Her aim was to create an image of innocent glamour. Which I think she succeeded. The adition of fur and lucent sequins adds to this quality. The use of  the plastic material gives it a modern age, again this is similar to Pacco Rabannes space age collections. 

I like the coordinating colours through the whole ensemble. I like the boots which have high heels and are knee high with python skin. Which looks sophisticated and provocative. 

The 2014 spring/summer collection is sports luxe. The sports socks and stripe trim give a minimalist and preppy look. However there are many contrasting elements.

The print design has a very pop art look to it. It is bold, dynamic imagery. Again, this piece is reminiscent of Laurent's dress because if the colours: yellow, red, blue and black. The socks add a block colour to the mix, giving it a modern feel.  

The imagery here is more toned down wih pastels, however I think it is still a bold image. The bralet is heavily embellished and textured in contrast to the matte smooth dress. I also like the subtle but effective use of red on the collar. 

Again here I like the contrast between the blocked colours and the textured details. The coat has a very boxy silhouette, this is accentuated by the lines made with embroiery. The colours stand out in comparison to the army green socks and dress beaneath. 

 

Photoshoping

 

Gothic Bohemian.. Indian Textiles. Jewellery. 

PART TWO- SUBCULTURE BLOG

Before deciding on my subculture I began to think of why I came into fashion and what inspires my current ideas. Then maybe I could get into the core of what influences my style and puts me in a subculture.

I take great pride in my pinterest board patterns and texture, it is a visual display of the type of style I like. However the things on there can be very varied as well. I know that I love texture and detail, wether that's structured or abstract. I honestly find it difficult to design anything without wanting to embroider and embellish it with swarovski crystals. I love vintage and I'm a hoarder, because you never know when you could use something again. I like the thought of wearing something completely  unique, and owning something that was part of another era. I find it difficult to pinpoint where I belong because I like so many aspects of different subcultures, which can contradict each other.

I honestly do not think that I fit into one subculture. When researching subcultures, a couple grabbed my attention: Mod, Folk, Hippy and Bohemian.

To help me discover my subculture I began looking at the past. From when subcultures began in 50/60s teenagers to the current day, I watched The Don Letts Subculture films which actually focus on male fashion, it seems that changes in male fashion have more of an impact, since womens fashion changes so rapidly. I found that a lot of the subcultures revolve around the modernists (mod) that put their own twist on the teddy boys. They were described as "working class dandies" descendants from the devotees of italian style. They were a little pop and a little beatnik, bold and graphic. I feel like I can realate to the original modernists..they were always dressed up, pin sharp, they want to live fashionable not just on the weekends. When I go shopping I always find myself buying clothes that are not everyday, e.g fitted jackets, skirts, dresses for going out or formal occasions, just because I like them. I have been told in the past that I dress a bit "posh" when I'm as common as you can get.

My grandmother in the 50s wearing an oversized blazer

I think to some extent I have gotten some of that from my grandmother, who is always well dressed for any occasion. I also own some of the old clothes that she gave me.

Mary Quant

I love how the mod girls took what the men did and put their own twist to it. It's still the same clean simple style, but feminine, short skirts, streamlined forms. I love these outfits, especially the shoes! It all seems carefree, fun and young. 

This is a close up of the trousers my grandmother gave me. Which has become a big part of my wardrobe since I wear them all the time. 

This is my cambridge satchel. It's probably the most expensive bag I've ever bought. I like it because it's a classic style. I was adament that I was going to have one and I couldn't forget my initials. 

Although I love the mod style, for me it can be too simplistic, and when I'm designing I like to think about different styles and silhouettes, the stuctured form limits possibilities. I also think about how clean cut, simple, perfect they could be, and I'm just not. 

My shoes are never polished, my hair is free flowing, (wild) not in a perfect, straight pixie cut. I think I would embrace the mod look but in a sloppy way. 

Other subcultures which I think I can relate to is Hippy/Bohemian/folk. Although these subcultures are different, I feel that they all intertwine and have developed in a similar way.

I like the sense of freedom, psychedelic, colourful and expressive, eccentric, offbeat and artistic. Girly but grounded as well. I can imagine a girl with tousled, scraggy hair and dirty bare feet in a field but shes wearing a lace gown and a floral garland. It's very pure.
The hippies and bohemians were very experimental with clothing; the look originates from many different cultures.

"The Hippy Trail" is an acronysm for some of the young 'beat' generation of the 1950s-1970s who traveled through Istanbul to India, as an escape from the capitalist, mainstream culture in the West, they felt nostalgic and felt a need to go to a place that's pure, untouched and uncontaminated. In turn they discovered different cultures, different dress, which influenced their fashions. I am inspired by their desire to explore the world, to leave conformity.

 

I think what inspired me most about hippies, isn't the subculture itself, but from where the styles come from. the diffusion of style from the east to the west, which is the same with bohemians and folk. I like the combination of traditional clothing and modern patterns in this picture. i especially like the cloggs, a reminder of my own culture in Wales, where cloggs are worn for folk dancing.

 

Laura Ashley 1970s. Floral nostalgic dresses.  

 

Valentino. Folk style dresses. I love Valentino!

What I admire most about Valentino is that he makes clothes that are purely beautiful. These dresses have the essence of freeflowing, hippy style, but it is sophisticated. rich and fresh. The detail is everything. 

 

I made this combination about two years ago. I took a page from a magazine which had a modish edge to it and scanned in some vintage abric from an old chair and overlaid it. 

 

In conclusion my subculture is hippy/mod. Although they seem worlds appart, through this project I will attempt to experiment and combine the two/ ecide my favourite. to discover my own aesthetic.

VIDEOS.

In our last lesson we watched lots of different videos that might light up some ideas about subcultures. At the time I was at a complete standstill. And I couldn't think of any videos to contribute to the group. However I've now found some that are really up my street. I've come up with these videos after having a long hard think about my possible subculture. There are many factors that can contribute to it and one of those factors is music.   

Since arriving at uni, I've felt completely lost when it comes to music. everyone knows different bands that I've never heard of. And you get the question.. "so....what music do you listen to then?"

I used to dance a lot. particularly slow dancing, it's like contemporary dance, it's passionate and dramatic and you have to really feel for the music. So I actually like music that I could physically dance to in that way. 

I could just shove on some classic Christina Aguilera ballads and Bonnie Tyler. MY FAVES. but I found these pretty interesting. 

Why do I suddenly love this colour so much?

The colour: Salmon Pink

This colour gives the feminity and naivety of the typical pastel pink, but without feeling like a marshmallow when you wear too much of it. However I wouldn't want to run the risk of looking like a skinned salmon either. 

Pastel colours are clean, crisp but feel cold, making them perfect for summer. And with these pastels coming into A/W 2014 it just doesn't make sense to me to be wearing something that makes me feel cold. Being the mix of both orange and pink, salmon pink somehow feels warmer and more sophisticated even.   

 This is a blanket I bought from a second hand shop, when hunting for cheap interiors for my uni room. On the opposite side you get the white as the base colour and the pink coming through as the pattern. This is something interesting for me to think about when designing knitwear or woven textiles.

I love jewellery, I don't even wear that much, this hasn't been worn at all. It's a long piece which I bought to drape on my back with a cut out dress, feeling the 1920s great gatsby flapper vibe at the time.  It's covered in sequins and knitted with rope. I think the rope gives it an organic feel. 

Left is a jacket I spotted at the vintage market in Brick Lane, I love the drape and lightness of it, and also the subtle patterns. I love jackets! I think the right coat, jacket, cardigan can make an outfit, it creates more layers and depth. Right is a top I made out of vintage material, I love patterns, how can I not! I'm doing fashion textiles, I especially like brocade style patterns like this one. It also consists of one of my other favourite colours. MINT GREEN. I made it oversized with contrasting colours for the sleeves and back, and a statement zip. 

Also at the vintage market was a crop top and matching midi skirt covered in these sequins. I couldn't help but make the connection with current styles from topshop and the co-ords which are invading my depop app 24/7. 

I remember, at one stage of my life, I had a slight hatred for pink. To me, growing up with my barbie dolls and then my very pink room, it seemed alltogether a very childish colour. It put me in a box.. where I was still the silly little girly girl who likes all things pink. I didn't want to be that. And I think that really puts into perspective what this project is about, by researching and evaluating which subculture I belong to, I can try and find my own aesthetic to inform my designs. But do I want to be in a box? hell no! I am making a commitment, that I always challenge my ideas, not going back to the same things all the time.. Ironically. I like pink again.