PART THREE: Designer Blog

Designer No.1- VALENTINO

The classical work of Valentino, master couturier, seems worlds away from the hippy or mod subcultures. Valentino's aim was to instill an essence of femininity, glamour, haute couture and perfection in his designs. To dress the world's most beautiful, famous and rich women. What I love most about many of his designs is the attention to detail and most importantly, elegance. 

A light, smooth draping gown, pure, beautiful. 

However I have noticed that many of the brands designs, in current years, have a very bohemian look about them. The silhouette is free but still sculptures the body with a sinched waist, the skirt falls gracefully, high neckline. It looks very natural, pure and virginal. I think that reflects the hippy subculture in that they were seeking an escape to better surroundings. In this fashion shoot she is wondering the wilderness.

In October 2008 Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli became creative directors of the brand and have been credited with rejuvinating the brand with collections that stayed true to its legacy whilst also moving the design aesthetic forward.

I was inspired by these recent collections as I believe they convey folkloric, ethnic, and bohemian sensibilities.

The Spring 2014 collection was actually inspired by the Opera. From costumes and drawings in the opera house in rome to traditional peasant needlework. They're designs seemed pagan and ethnic, worldly. I liked the contrast between the black and bright coloured embellishments, many of the patterns looked egyptian and aztec.   

I like this psychedelic, ornate detailing, with rich colours. It is also quite subtle in comparison to some other garments with allover embellishments. 

Here they took inspiration from Frida Kahlo for the Valentino Resort 2015 collection. It had a very folkloric feel to it, colourful, playful but serious. Broderie anglaise victorian style- Laura Ashley dresses of the late sixties and early seventies. Also some very modish outfits.

Designer no.2- Manish Arora

Manish Arora is an inspiring designer, he is known for his astute craftmanship and unique play on colours. His designs are inspired by Indian heritage, something which relates very well to the hippy aesthetic. However he gives it a contemporary edge. 

In 2011 he was announced the creative director of womenswear for Pacco Rabanne. Rabanne and Arora are both known for their creative and avant-garde creations, working with contemporary materials. He instilled in the brand, the same futuristic, space age hype from the 60s which I marvel at.

I particulary like his pastel collections, it is a fresh approach in comparison to some of his other collections which include very bright, vivid colours. Still with the inclusion of heavy embroidery but from afar it is more subtle, classic, modern and chic. In comparison to Valentino, his work has more edge, it is young, new and exciting. Like Valentino a lot of his collections feature a lot of pieces with smooth draping silhouettes, they look effortless and elegant. However the pieces I have selected are more structured.

This piece is from one of his earlier collections which represents his aesthetic very well.

His spring 2015 collection is refreshingly different to his typical design work, although still heavily embellished it is toned down. He uses multiple layers, with sheer paneling, iridescent materials that still give a mystical image. the mixing of sheer materials on top of embellishment to give a gauzy haze of foreground and background.

 

 I like the combination of the traditional style pattern, but with the addition of sequins, metallic tones and the simple cut shift dress, it makes it modern. Like the 60s space age Pacco Rabanne dresses.

 

I thought these two looks stood out as they are radically different. Simple, minimalist, but still with a little touch of sparkle. I like the sporty feel of them. This inspires me to experiment with mixing different styles and silhouettes.  

 

 

                       

 The spring 2014 collection incorporates fluoro, art deco patterns and kaleidoscopic botanicals. A sporty, lightweight collection with pebbly sweatshirts, waterproof parkas and knitted flapper dresses. 

I like the creative use of imagery, such as the vintage planes, cigarettes and keys, other images are hard to decipher. 

 

I like the amount of layers and depth in this piece. The intricate,beautiful embellishments, which look like scales and fins. I like the accuracy, and the symmetry of the arrangement. With subtle hints of gold, in beading beneath. 

Designer No.3- Miuccia Prada

I remember when Prada's A/W 2011 collection caught my eye. She chose the dropped- waist, straight up and down silhouette of the 1920s flapper or sixties dolly bird, two decades in which, I believe, the styles coexist. Wide belts were slung low over big-buttoned coat-dresses or sheer shifts. The collection gives the essence of 1960s mod, especially with the reference to Yves Saint Laurents iconic Mondrian dress from 1965. A quintessence of fashion modernism.

I like the rich use of colours, a toned down version of Laurents' version with primary colours. 

Her aim was to create an image of innocent glamour. Which I think she succeeded. The adition of fur and lucent sequins adds to this quality. The use of  the plastic material gives it a modern age, again this is similar to Pacco Rabannes space age collections. 

I like the coordinating colours through the whole ensemble. I like the boots which have high heels and are knee high with python skin. Which looks sophisticated and provocative. 

The 2014 spring/summer collection is sports luxe. The sports socks and stripe trim give a minimalist and preppy look. However there are many contrasting elements.

The print design has a very pop art look to it. It is bold, dynamic imagery. Again, this piece is reminiscent of Laurent's dress because if the colours: yellow, red, blue and black. The socks add a block colour to the mix, giving it a modern feel.  

The imagery here is more toned down wih pastels, however I think it is still a bold image. The bralet is heavily embellished and textured in contrast to the matte smooth dress. I also like the subtle but effective use of red on the collar. 

Again here I like the contrast between the blocked colours and the textured details. The coat has a very boxy silhouette, this is accentuated by the lines made with embroiery. The colours stand out in comparison to the army green socks and dress beaneath.